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10 Sept 1813^[1]

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                             Exeter Friday
10 Sep^r[2]
I was extremely glad to see the Paynters set off on Acc^t. of the
appearance of the oldest as I think he may die very suddenly -- The
younger has an uncommon red face as far as his Eye brows like M^rs
White & is so near sited that he comes into a room with his Eyes
closed & when he has advanced two or 3 yards his Eye Lids begin to
Twinkle & you can perceive that he has Eyes -- by Candlelight
they have uncommonly brilliancy & look beautiful -- when he came
to breakfast this morning he said his Nose had bled twice yesterday
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& this morning he awoke w^h- his Mouth full of blood -- he is a
very clever young Man -- They disappointed us of setting out
to day as they seemed undecided & therefore I could not give a hint
that we were going the same way -- When they went I took my
fishing rod but the water was not in a proper State & then I
went out with my Gun for an hour but could not fin[d]  ------ 
Thursday -- The morning was very wet & kept us in susp[ense]
about 12 it cleared & as soon as y^r- 3^d. letter arrived we set
out & stopt to feed our horses at Brickleigh^[3] where Bamfield
More Cerew was born & buried -- in our Way to this place we paʃsed
M^r. Worth's of Worth^[4] whos wife committed a faux pas with a
Footman & was packed off -- M^r. W. is a very handsome Man &
has a large fortune & was made very miserable by the miscon-
duct of his Wife who had several Children -- We also paʃsed the
House at Washfield where Hatfield lived & flourished away for
a Year with a beautiful Wife before he married Mary of Buttermere
& was hanged for franking a Letter -- We paʃsed at a Miles distance
Killerton the Seat of Sir T. Dyke Ackland & saw Sir Stafford Northcotes
place -- The Vale from Tiverton is very fine & at Brickleigh
it begins to expand thro very rich land & forms a wide Valley
with the Ex^[5] in the middle of it & the sides of the hills covered

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at intervalls with fine Woods -- adjoining every House & Cottage
is an Orchard -- this year wearing a melancholy appearance as there
is great dependance on Apples for Cyder, the great beverage of the
Country -- these Orchards when the Trees are in bloom in the
spring must have a charming Effect as few things equal in
beauty the Apple bloʃsom -- Miʃs Parkin promised me
great pleasure from the prospect from 3 mile hill near
Exeter & said so much that I fancied the imagination was
already satisfied & expected the natural Consequence -- but
my Admiration of the Scene far exceeded all expectation &
I was in raptures -- The View is bounded in various
parts by the horizon at such distance that a further
extent could not gratify the natural sight & the Mind
remains satisfied -- this enchanting Scenery consists
of /an immense extent of the richest Land & the Green
is so thickly interspersed w^h- the Yellow that it increases
the gratification by a conviction of the plenty produced
by the Cultivation of so rich a Soil with the bleʃsing
of providence -- the Hills rise to a considerable
heigth & are either clothed w^h- fine Woods or cultivated
to their Summits -- on what side soever you look the
Scenery is equally fine -- When we arrived at the Summit
of the hill we looked down upon Exeter & Exmouth & the
Country beyond these places cannot be exceed in beauty
any where -- We got to Exeter at 6 & immediately began
to take a view of the City we saw before it was dark almost
every part -- We went to the Cathedral just at the moment when
they were concluding a Rehearsal for Monday when Catalani is
to sing & we fixed w^h- a young Man to play the Organ for us tomorrow --
There is a walk near the the Castle called Northonly^[6] -- where there are

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several broad Walks midst lofty Elms that conceal the Rays of
the Sun & where several thousands may walk at a time -- here on
a Sunday aʃsemble the whole people of Exeter who are inclined to
walks & there are stationed 2 or 3 bands of Music at different
parts -- You can form no idea of the beauty & luxury of this
place without seeing it -- We dined as soon as it became dark
& in course of time went to bed --
Friday -- This morning I sallied out before my Companion was
up & went to see the House of Correction which has cost an im-
mense sum -- I measured 600 feet in front & then I went to
the Barracks which are very extensive -- A Cart load of Lime Stone
paʃsed containing a beautiful red Stone striated w^h- white that gives
it an appearance of Marble -- After breakfast -- at w^ch. John M^rs. P.s
youngest Son partook -- a fine boy of 12 -- I did not forget the Schoolboy^[7] --
we went to M^r. Leakey to see his pictures -- his portraits are
good & his likeneʃses strong & his Landscapes have great
Merit -- We then went to the Cathedral to hear a little of the
Organ & to inform the young man that we could not stay to day to hear
him -- I saw the Bishop sitting in his magnificent throne & he
saw me -- Parkin ran up to the Organ to make an excuse & the young
Man took an Opp^y during the Chant to give a delicate expreʃsion of
the full Organ which astonished^[8] me -- There is a separate Arrang-
ment of pipes of prodigious thickneʃsdiameter that produces a Sound unex-
ampled -- We set out for Exmouth & I disputed w^h- James that he was going a wrong way
he said he had been repeatedly at Exmouth so I submitted -- when we had proceeded a
mile we met some of his acquaintances who laught at him & set us right, by his wrong
headedneʃs we lost 3 miles -- we came into the right road again at Sir J. Duckworth
at Wear 2 miles f^m. Exeter a pretty place -- When Sir J. was on a Voyage he
observed a Pig had fallen into the Sea -- he immeadiately ordered the Ship to wear^[9]
the poor pig he cried out will be drown lower a boat directly & take it up -- Some
one unfortunately said the pig belonged to a Midshipman -- Sir J. then said Oh
poor pig must be drowned -- we can't stop the Ship for a pig!!! One day meet^g
several poor Women going to his House he asked them where they were going -- They
answered My Lady had ordered them to come for some Broth -- Broth Broth
said the Niggard You shall have no Broth here -- Go about y^r- busineʃs -- !!
A Gentⁿ. in the Neighborhood went to dine w^h- him -- there was no Hay or Corn for
the horses & after dinner the Meat was put away & Nothing for the Servants

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upon this the Servants took the horses to Exeter & when they had fed both parties
they returned in time to take their Master home. who wrote to Sir J. the next
day that he should^[10] visit him any more -- The road turned short^[11] at the town
of Topsham & we rode thro the town & had great difficulty to keep our horses
the right side upermost & when we got out of this dreadful place we miʃsed
our way again -- We did at last get to Exmouth from whence there is the
finest view of Sea & Land that can be imagined -- the Sea was covered with
Small Craft & acroʃs the River is seen Lord Lisburne's fine place Mamhead
& Powderham Castle -- the Wretch^[12] who belongs to it is said to be  ------ 
in America --

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Saturday 1 OClock -- I must^[13] over all yesterday for this letter -- At 10 we went to
the Cathedral -- as soon as the Bishop saw me he sent by one of the Choiristers
for the Youth who was playing the Organ to come & join in Te Deum Laudamus com-
posed by Jackson & afterwards he spoke to him previous to his singing an Anthem
Soleas by Kent^[14] except the concluding Chorus -- I was perfectly enchanted with
the Anthem -- his Voice is the finest I ever heard & the Organ is reckoned the
grandest in Europe -- the pipes being 2 Inches in Diameter wider than the Organ
at Ulm -- We staid after the Service to hear the beginning of the Rehearsal for
Monday -- The Bishop came in & was very friendly asked me how I liked the Anthems
I said I was delighted he tapped me on the Shoulder & said I sh^d. be ungrateful if I did
not as he ordered it on purpose as soon as he saw me, I lamented that I could not
hear the full Organ -- he instantly ordered it to be played & the Choir sung that noble

Chorus of the Horse                & his Rider^[15] & it was truly mag
nificent -- We are just setting out on our return
& I am delighted w^h. every thing I have seen & heard -- Adieu -- God bleʃs you
                             you must make this out as well as you can -- ^[16]

Present my dutiful Love to L^y Cecilia & Comp^s
to M^r. Johnston^[17]

                             1813^[18]
                             Single Sheet

To^[19]
      M^rs. Dickenson
32      Devonshire Place
                             London^[20]